Church suppers aren't new. In fact, they're so old that in most places they've all but gone the way of the Dodo bird. But I say God bless the ones that are still in business.

Last year, while vacationing in northern Maine, my husband and I partook of a supper at a nearby tiny church, where parishioners served up a complete turkey dinner with all the trimmings, family-style - for $6. The little church hall was packed, and the tables were laden with platters of turkey and bowls of mashed potato and stuffing. One of the servers told us they did it once a month, September to May. We were delighted to have come across such a rare find, and lamented the absence of such quaint opportunities back home.

Imagine our surprise this month, when we spotted a calendar item in The Groton Herald for a roast beef dinner at the Christian Union Church in Groton - for $7! Without giving it a second thought, we headed to Groton for our Saturday night supper.

There is just nothing like the down-home goodness of a supper like this, prepared with love - and dreams of adding to the coffers of the building fund. We were greeted at the door by friendly faces, who guided us into the hall and explained the ropes to us.

"Just pick out where you want to sit, and someone will wait on you."

That was it. And no sooner were we seated at the checkered-cloth-covered table, than a woman arrived with a basket of fresh, home-made rolls and sweet bread. Assisted by a helper who couldn't have been more than 10, she returned with a platter of roast beef, bowls of mashed potatoes, corn and green beans, and a pitcher of gravy. All for us. And the food was good. No gourmet stuff here. Just down-to-earth, hearty comfort food - as much as we wanted. But we didn't overdo it. What was on the platter and in the bowls they brought was plenty for us.

Throughout dinner one of the church's senior citizens worked the crowd, offering coffee or punch to drink, and he was quick to show up with the pitcher when we needed a refill. Just as we finished the main course, a woman appeared, as if from out of nowhere, to ask if we wanted dessert. All this, and dessert too? Of course. This was a church supper. The featured ending to this fine meal was peach cobbler, topped with whipped cream. Dining out doesn't always have to be haute cuisine that challenges the limit on your charge card.

During the meal I struck up a conversation with the woman in charge. She said the church has been doing these suppers for years, the third Saturday of the month during September and October, and January through May. She said the featured entree is always roast beef, but the accompaniments and desserts vary. We told her she could expect to see us again Oct. 21.

Menus and directions to Christian Union Church are posted on the church's Web site, at http://westgrotonchristianunion.com/SuppersBreakfastHolidayFair.dsp. Those without Web access can call 978-448-3348 for more information.

- The Mangia Maven

A restaurant critic from Bolton who dines anonymously to give readers an unbiased opinion of dining experiences in the area.

please box the summary

SUMMARY: (Perfect score=5)

Overall rating: 4.5

Price ($$$$$): $

Ambience: 3

Quality of food: 4.5

Service: 4.5

Handicapped accessible? Yes

Credit cards accepted? No

Hours: The third Saturday of the month, September and October and January through May.