Zong-Jian Zou thumbed through a dog-eared Chinese-English dictionary, searching for the right word. The owner of the Clinton Gourmet Chinese restaurant, known to friends and regular customers as Joe, was attempting to describe one of the factors he believes sets his food apart from other area Chinese restaurants.

As his finger came to a stop on the page, he looked up with a wide smile and said, “fresh.” More adjectives followed as Joe recounted his 20 plus years as a cook and bar tender, both in China’s Fujian province and here in the U.S.

While a student in China “I learned to cook in many different styles,” Joe said, “Cantonese, Hong Kong, Szechuan and Hunan.” Each region in China has its own style of cooking, and each has its own distinctive character. This diversity led Joe to create his own unique style. But that wasn’t enough. He also conducted extensive research to create what he deems “the perfect sauces” for his own versions of well-known Chinese dishes.

“For example, I tried chicken wings at different restaurants. Some were too salty, some didn’t have much flavor,” he said. “I wanted to make fresh food that is healthy and tastes good.”

Joe came to the U.S. in 1990, followed shortly after by his wife and parents. In 2002, the family moved to Clinton and Joe rented the space on Main Street near Shaws supermarket formerly occupied by the Fortune Cookie restaurant. He recalled being overwhelmed by the condition of the building and the amount of renovation necessary before he could open the doors to his own restaurant.

“I almost cried,” he said. “It took me 45 days to clean everything and upgrade the kitchen. Almost everything had to be replaced.”

Now, a cheerful yellow awning crowns the entrance, but the upgrades continue. “Next, we replace the carpet.”

His next goal for Clinton Gourmet is to be ranked among the top 100 Chinese restaurants in the US.

“This [ranking] is by the customer’s vote,” he said, and is not influenced by food critics or professional reviewers. “That is why it is very important to us.” More information about this award is available at www.c-r-n.com.

The years spent honing his culinary skills, diligently researching seasonings for the perfect sauces, and long days of hard work have rewarded Joe with a thriving, if not demanding, business. The majority of Clinton Gourmet’s customers visit once a week. Some come here to eat as often as three times a week. Joe and his wife, Katie, who tends bar in the restaurant’s lounge, know most customers by name and which dishes are their favorites.

“Our customers are very important,” Joe said. “It is a compliment to us every time they come in.”

Joe spends 14 or more hours a day preparing food, cooking, cleaning and managing the business, and when things break down as they inevitably do, he also makes repairs.

“Whatever needs to be done, I do it,” he said proudly. Cooking is more than simply a job he enjoys. It is his life’s passion.

The Clinton Gourmet is located at 1075 Main St., Clinton. Nancy Brooks can be reached at mothertown@cnc.com.