It’s early afternoon on a sweltering Saturday and the half-mile stretch along Rt. 133 in Essex is relatively quiet, save for the bustle at Woodman’s, where dozens of people line up for the legendary fried clams.
But as the day moves on, beachgoers on their way home flock to the town’s dozens of antique shops, looking for a deal, a rare find, or just the chance to window-shop through history.
They’ve come to the right place. Woodman’s claims its fried clams are “world-famous,” and Essex says it’s the “Antiques Capital of the World,” and they’re both probably right. This small, close-knit Cape Ann town only has about 3,200 residents, but there are more than 20 antique shops, some home to multiple dealers, along Main Street on Route 133, each carving out a niche in this dense market. That’s more antiques shops per square mile than anywhere else in the U.S..
The town, built next to a beautiful saltwater marsh, is bisected by the Essex River, and on either side, shops abound, catering to myriad tastes and budgets. Whether it’s 19th century American furniture that you crave or Italian renaissance pieces that get you excited, you won’t leave here disappointed. The shops also run the gamut in price, from an outlet with $5 bargains to high-end establishments with five-figure treasures.
It’s an easy day trip from most of Eastern Massachusetts, and fall, part of the prime antique season, is a beautiful time of year to visit. While you’re there, you can also take boat excursions along the Essex River, visit the Essex Shipbuilding Museum, play golf at nearby courses and visit beaches and plenty of restaurants.
“We’ve got it all, really,” says Vincent W. Caravella, president of the Essex Antiques Dealers Association and owner of The Scrapbook, a store specializing in antique maps and decorative works of art on paper from the 16th through 19th centuries.
The antique business really took root in Essex after World War II, as the wooden shipbuilding industry collapsed. “The businesses that once supplied the shipping trade closed,” says Caravalla. “There were a lot of open buildings.” Antique dealers started sprouting up, joining a few others that had already set up shop.
Starting at the north end of the half-mile stretch, you’ll find Caravella’s shop, which he has run with his wife for more than 35 years. It’s tucked in behind the White Elephant Shop, and on the walls, you’ll find everything from original Winslow Homer wood engravings to prints by the early 19th century children’s book illustrator Kate Greenaway and 17th century Mercator map of the Western Hemisphere.
Around the corner at the White Elephant, the wide range of merchandise transcend categorization. Books, albums, jewelry, and paintings are among the finds. Today, there’s a 1930s wooden schooner with linen sails and a remote control selling for $350, as well as an 1845 Nathaniel Currier print (pre-Currier and Ives) of George Washington. Depicting his 1789 journey to his inauguration, it sells for $125.
“We get a lot of house calls,” says owner Rick Grobe. “I don’t do auctions or estate sales. It’s all fresh merchandise. We never know what’s coming in.” And after a time in the main store, Grobe rotates the inventory to his half-prices outlet a mile up the road.
“It’s about as raw stock as you can get,” Caravella says of the shop.
Moving south, toward the river, you’ll find David Nelligan Antiques, home to upscale objects of art and furniture. “He has a designer’s eye,” says Caravella. “He sells to a lot of designers and decorators.”
An Italian neoclassic gilded gold mirror selling for $3,200 hangs on one wall, not far from an early 19th century French mahogany miniature table for $675. “This isn’t for the faint of heart,” says Caravella, “but it’s quality.”
Ken Monroe has been in town for nearly 40 years, operating Americana Antiques, specializing in refinished American furniture from 1800 to 1915, mostly country oaks, pines, cherries, and walnuts. “I let everyone else do the later mahogany,” he says.
“When we started in town, a lot of shops didn’t refinish. They left it as it was,” Monroe says. “I won’t touch some stuff but most of my merchandise is refinished. It’s all hand-stripped, hand-ragged finishes.”
Across the river at Andrew Spindler Antiques, you’ll see a more minimalist approach. Rather than pack-in antiques, the shop is set up with more of an eye toward design, pairing pieces together in surprising and eclectic ways.
“I don’t limit myself to a particular time period…It tends to cross the line between antique and modern, not in terms of date, but look,” says Spindler, who has been doing business in Essex for 10 years. “It’s very design-driven…In the end, what’s going on in the antique market today is decoration. [Consumers] want a sense of style.”
In his store, you’ll find 1970s mixed metal and glass cube tables. “They don’t read as completely new,” Spindler says. “I like the idea of pairing them with something very old.”
At the other end of the spectrum, there’s an 1835 William IV chart table with a black inset tooled leather top, and an English Arts and Crafts style trestle table.
At Ellen Neily Antiques, there’s an emphasis on 18th and 19th century American furniture, silver, and Chinese exports. As is the case with antiques, there are stories behind many of the pieces here. Captain’s boxes used for writing letters on trips out to sea, a mid-19th century yarn swift with intricate carvings, and an 1800 woman’s sewing stand from Salem, Mass. are among the gems.
Next door, on the first floor of North Hill Antiques, Sylvia and David Kaplan sell mostly European antiques, including a pair of hand-caned, 19th-century French walnut chairs, a late 19th-century Belgium tapestry and an English oak, hand-carved coffee chest from the 1700s.
For something on the very high-end, head over to Alexander Westerhoff Fine Antique Furnishings. Inside the store, which has a decidedly upscale feel, there’s a mix of American and European antiques, including period chandeliers and sconces. One unique find is a mid-19th century walnut bench in use at Harvard University until the mid-20th century, complete with inscriptions of Harvard-Yale football game scores. Also on display are 1740 pine dummy-boards featuring what appears to be English aristocrats; people placed these boards in front of their fireplaces when they went out to give the appearance that people were home.
“I think we have a line of pieces with heart and soul, that hit you when you see them,” says co-owner Thomas I. Lang.
It’s late afternoon now. More newly tanned, homeward-bound beachcombers stop in Essex, hungry for fried clams and the chance to browse tangible pieces of history. And with such eclectic offerings in this small seaside town, it seems unlikely they’ll go home empty-handed. Or hungry.

Antiques almost became history
After a recent slump, local antique dealers are pleased to see a revival of sorts in the antique business.
“Last year, we started to see a change, a revival,” says Vincent W. Caravella, president of the Essex Antiques Dealers Association. “It’s not the heyday of the ‘80s, but it’s coming back.”
The combination of dwindling business from the dealers’ prime market — the baby boomer generation — and a downturn in the economy made for some hard times. In addition, there was little influx of new consumers. The Internet also had an effect, as consumers and dealers alike chose to use ebay instead of hitting stores or shows.
“The business had been taking a hit,” Caravella says. “You went to an antiques show three years ago and no one was under 45. There was no new blood.”
Caravella’s business suffered. “A couple of years ago, I was just treading water. I was ready to pack it in,” he recalls. “We are a luxury good. You don’t need it. You don’t eat, drink, or wear it. It’s quality of life.”
Caravella managed to stay afloat by adapting his business and responding to what he saw as a call for a change in his presentation by framing more prints. “Business jumped and we started to notice that we were selling to young professionals,” he says, noting he tapped into this younger generation’s desire to have “everything pre-packaged and ready to go.”
This new demographic — young professionals in their 20s and 30s — is hitting the market, in some cases buying antiques that have recycled back on the market as the older antique aficionados downsize, Caravella points out. Antique enthusiasts seem to be returning to the shows and stores to get that personal, tangible experience you simply can’t get through online shopping.
Still, dealers need to stay on their toes. “This is a seat-of-your-pants business,” Caravella says. “It’s the last of the real free-market economy. It’s not subsidized by anything, from a dealer’s perspective.”

Antiquing tips
If you’re new to antiquing, there are a few pointers to keep in mind while you shop.
Bring a tape measure and photos of the space you have in mind. “I see more people come to a show, look at a piece, and have no idea if it will fit in their house,” Caravella says. “Take some photos of the space you want to use and measure the dimensions so you’ll be armed with information that will be helpful in your decision.”
Don’t be afraid to engage dealers in conversation. “Some people walk up to dealers and say, ‘I’ll give you this much money for that piece.’ That’s the wrong approach,” Caravella says. “Ask questions about the piece, even compliment it, instead of pointing out its flaws. Ask how it was made. If you’re a novice, educate yourself before.”
Know how to ask for a discount. Most dealers are fair and open to negotiating, notes Andrew Spindler, owner of Andrew Spindler Antiques. “Savvy buyers know how to ask for a discount. They’ll say, ‘What’s your best price? Can you do better?’ Every dealer has their bottom line.”