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Up & autumn: Follow this road to fall


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By Alexander Stevens
GateHouse News Service

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BOSTON -

According to an old adage, people travel all over the world to experience the four seasons, but in New England, the seasons come to you.

 That may be true, but there’s nothing wrong with meeting a season half way.

If you seek autumn — glorious, unspoiled, unfettered autumn — there are all sorts of places you can find it: on the Kancamagus highway that takes you through the heart of the White Mountains in New Hampshire, in the remote beauty of the Northeast Kingdom in Vermont, in the bucolic foothills of the Berkshires.

 But we’re suggesting a trip that combines multiple pleasures and conveniences. It’s accessible from Greater Boston, it incorporates three quintessential New England hamlets, and, most important of all, it features roads with a view.

The route: Start at Brattleboro, Vermont. Take Rt. 9 to Bennington. Take Rts. 7 and 7A to Manchester Center. Take Rts. 11 and 30 back to Brattleboro.

 One of the little miracles of this journey into the heart of autumn is the way stress seems to leave the body as soon as the rush of Greater Boston disappears in the rear view mirror, and all that lies before you is road and color. These journeys are good for the soul. We found ourselves taking note of every “For Sale” sign, and letting our imagination run a little wild, picturing life in a town that’s just been painted orange with leaves, and where “downtown” is a post office, a general store, and a church that’s been there since 1791. Breathe deeply. There’s another life out there, a simpler, more peaceful life, and it’s nice to be reminded that — quietly, patiently — it waits.

 Prelude: Depending on your start point, we recommend trying to hook up with Rt. 119 (either off Rt. 2 in Concord, Massachusetts, or off Rt. 12 in Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire), and then follow Rt. 119 into Brattleboro.

Rt. 119 makes a wonderfully scenic entry into Brattleboro. Passing through Fitzwilliam, you’ll soon realize you’re in mountain country. Your ride cuts up and down steep hills with dramatic views of foliage. Heading out of Westminster, you’ll see a picturesque cemetery. It won’t be the last New England graveyard that will remind you of the last scene in “Our Town,” Thornton Wilder’s classic play that was inspired by a village — Peterborough, New Hampshire — that’s about 30 minutes from here.

Sure, there are small doses of reality along the way, but there’s nothing wrong with that. Ashuelot and Hinsdale are towns that have seen more affluent days, and not every stretch of road that you travel has a Kodak moment. It’s an important reminder that the reality of rural life isn’t always as romantic as painters and poets may picture it.

As you leave Hinsdale — next stop, Brattleboro — the road opens up, the views become more expansive, more conducive to stunning long-shots of color. And you can sense, even before you arrive there, that the Connecticut River valley is just beyond the next notch.

On Rt. 119, the arrival into Brattleboro is quick and dramatic. A weather-worn green metal bridge delivers you, with stunning views of the sleepy, majestic Connecticut River now on your left and right. In the height of fall, the brilliant, bank-side trees of orange, yellow and red are reflected in its mysterious waters.

And suddenly you’re on Main Street in Brattleboro.

Any town built on a hill is immediately interesting. Add in a river and a mountain, and you’ve got one of the more interesting towns in New England. Although, further north, Brattleboro has a commercial stretch of predictable chain stores — yes, a McDonalds, yes, a KFC — that onslaught hasn’t yet pillaged the downtown, which remains quaint, unique and vital. Brattleboro’s Main Street and connecting roads are filled with funky, iconoclastic shops, some of which underscore the town’s crunchy granola reputation.

We recommend spending a night in Brattleboro and heading out on the first leg of the journey the next morning. You can do the entire loop — Brattleboro to Bennington to Manchester and back to Brattleboro — in one day, but spending a night in Brattleboro will help you get a fresh start for a full day. 

First leg: Brattleboro to Bennington

As you leave Brattleboro, you’ll immediately realize that you’re going up. The Connecticut River valley is in the rear view mirror; it’s mountains, and mountains of color, ahead. This upward mobility is a good thing — it’s going to pay off with the kind of stunning panoramic views that only altitude can give you.

The perfect example arrives about 20 minutes out of Brattleboro, when you crest Hogback mountain. You’ll find a “scenic overlook” — a place to stop and gawk. (It’s on the left-hand side of the road, so be careful when you cross, especially with autumn leaf-peeping traffic.) On a clear day, the views extend all the way back into New Hampshire, and perhaps even down into Massachusetts to the south. It’s picture-postcard perfect.

Continuing on Rt. 9, you’ll see the beautiful Harriman Reservoir on your left in Wilmington. If you feel like a little water adventure, you can stop here and rent a boat. (See Tip # 2)

The next town over is Woodford, and as you’re leaving Woodford, you’ll realize you’re starting to descend into a valley. Bennington, dead ahead.

Bennington is one of those New England towns that’s been overwhelmed by development. The town was chartered in 1749, so when its main streets were organized, they were built for horses, not Broncos. Or Tahoes. Or Suburbans. The result is that the intersection of Rts. 9 and 7 make for a pretty traffic-heavy downtown, especially during leaf season. But Bennington still manages a degree of quaintness, with shops for browsing and restaurants perfect for a sandwich at a sidewalk table. But you may find more joy and relaxation on the outskirts of the town.

Second Leg: Bennington to Manchester

As you exit Bennington, you start the most visually impressive leg of this tour. This is the heart of autumn. Views open up on both sides of the road, as you accelerate up Rt. 7.

Take Exit 3 off Rt. 7 so that you can hook up with “historic” Route 7A. As you approach the 7A connection, you’ll feel like you’re descending into a kind of gorge, with dramatic peaks of color rising all around you. That’s the way the landscape is out here. Abrupt and angular, at times almost cliff-like, it makes ideal, upright canvasses for mad portraits of color.

You’re in the Green Mountains, now, boys and girls — the magnificent mountain range that provides homes to iconic ski mountains such as Stratton, and a little further up, Killington. This is legendary landscape — riverbeds, ridges and lakes cut by glacial teeth. Enjoy the view, it’s been about 400 million years in the making.

Route 7A is scenic all the way. It will bring you through the old town of Manchester Village (as opposed to Manchester Center), where you can ogle elegant old homes that are, in their way, almost as impressive as the scenery.

From there, you’ll drive from the sublime into the somewhat ridiculous. Manchester Center is a town with its own distinctive look, but probably no one will be more charmed than tourists with a taste for outlet stores. Manchester Center seems to have them all: Orvis, Jones New York, Movado, Overland, Giorgio Armani, J. Crew, Banana Republic, and the list goes on.

Again, the busy roads that intersect in Manchester Center detract from some of its small-town appeal. But explore. The quieter side streets offer escape, interesting nooks and crannies, and retail deals of their own.

Final Leg: Manchester back to Brattleboro

This road — Rt. 11 to 30 — is the perfect way to wind up your trip. Lovely views await you on this scenic ride though some signature small towns of Vermont, including Townshend (population: 1,149), Newfane, and Dummerston, before delivering you once again to Brattleboro.

Tip #1: Stay.

Here are some possible places to stay during your trip. Our scenic tour can be done with just one overnight, but if you want to take little excursions or if you want to feel free to burn time at a roadside fair, you may want to spend more than one night in area.

Meadow Lark Inn, 13 Gipson Rd., Brattleboro (802-257-4582): It’s located in a pastoral setting, but the inn is still near the downtown and it’s convenient to many seasonal activities. And two rooms with Jacuzzis!

Forty Putney Road Bed & Breakfast, 192 Putney Rd., Brattleboro (802-254-6268): In addition to rooms, the B&B also has a cottage, a great option for two couples or families that are traveling together. Pets are even allowed in the cottage.

Whetstone Inn, 550 South Rd., Marlboro (802-254-2500): If you want to be even more rural than Brattleboro, check out the Whetstone Inn in the small town of Marlboro. It’s right outside of Brattleboro, on Rt. 9, heading toward Bennington.

Tip #2: Paddle.

There are a couple of beautiful spots to stop and enjoy the water along this scenic trip. The Harriman Reservoir is a lovely, snaking, 7-mile long body of water visible from Rt. 9 in Wilmington. Green Mountain Flagship (802-464-2975) rents canoes, kayaks and sailboats, and they also operate a boat tour. And a company called High Country (800-627-7533) rents Waverunners (starting at $95/hour) and pontoon boats (starting at $250/ two hours).      

For a more remote water experience, check out BattenKill Canoe on Rt. 7A (800-421-5268). They offer a variety of trips. They even have packages that include stays at local bed & breakfasts.

Tip # 3: Stop.

If your gut tells you to stop and check something out along then way, then stop. You’ll find lots of quaint roadside attractions on this trip — antiques shows, farmer’s markets, flea markets. Stop on a whim. If it’s not for you, just jump back in the car. But remember, wasting time is part of the joy of any trip.

Tip # 4: Explore.

If this trip whets your appetite for more site-seeing, then you’re in a perfect position for another wonderfully scenic trip when you return to Brattleboro. Catch Rt. 5, heading north, out of Brattleboro. It’s a twisting, turning road that runs alongside the Connecticut River, offering peeks of the grand river, and the hills and mountains on the other side of the river.

And if you want to save time when you head back to Brattleboro, don’t be afraid to take Rt. 91. In Greater Boston we’re used to highways that are lane-changing nightmares of congestion. But, by interstate standards, Rt. 91 is a nice drive — straight, wide-open, and blessed with lovely sites. And it runs next to Rt. 5, so it will lead you right back to Brattleboro.

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